BUY NOW EXCLUSIVE AT INTERSPORT

Please choose your respective country

Select your country

09.05.2017
Expedition

Second acclimatization session finalized and back in base camp

Last Friday, we set out from base camp right after an early breakfast at 06:00 a.m. The objective of the second acclimatization session was to set up Camp 3 and spend at least one night up there.

The slightly lighter backpacks – we had already taken a lot of gear to the top on our previous tour – weren't all that light after all. I was, however, able to pass through the Khumbu Icefall rather quickly, which I appreciated considering the tall, unstable ice structures along the way. I only paid a very short visit to Camp 1 just above the ice fall to pick up some of our equipment. Hannes would take down the tent and bring it to Camp 2 – our Camp 1 would then be entirely dismantled.

The terrain above Camp 1 is much flatter, but the sun was burning down upon us, and the heat turned this section into a very tough one. I reached Camp 2 after roughly five hours. Everything was OK, nothing was missing, and our tent had withstood the weather in our absence. Even our sleeping bags, mats, stove, etc. were still dry and ready for use. I made myself at home and waited for Hannes to arrive. In the afternoon, we were reunited, chilled and started planning our next steps.

On Saturday morning, we waited for the sun before leaving Camp 2 for Camp 3. Many other teams had already left in the dark, but we wanted to climb when it was warmer. The goal for that day was to pitch a tent as high as possible in the Lhotse wall. Despite the load that I carried, I moved quickly, and it didn't even take very long to get through the steep sections of the Lhotse wall, which were well secured with fixed ropes. The lower portion of Camp 3 was very crowded and barely offered room to accommodate another tent. I had planned to go higher anyway, knowing that there was another option about 200 meters higher. I climbed a bit further and quickly found a great spot, a bit hidden and well protected. I was able to claim a small spot under a huge wall of crevasses. Physical work at almost 7,400 meters above sea level is a bit painful, but after an hour, the spot was flattened, and I pitched our tent. Hannes didn't do all that well. The direct approach into Camp 2 the previous day, the heavy backpack and the steep Lhotse wall took their toll. He deposited his gear when he reached the first tents – about 200 meters below my location – and turned around to Camp 2. I joined him after I was done with setting everything up. A nasty afternoon rain shower complicated the trip across the glacier because – in the absence of visible traces and flags – you quickly find yourself in a whiteout. Because the last two days were extremely exhausting, we decided to take Sunday off. A quiet, sunny day in Camp 2 at 6,500 meters!

On Monday, it got serious again. With maximum loads on our backs we started another ascent to Camp 3. There weren't many people, the conditions were great, and we were well rested. I reached our tent after approximately three hours. Our red McKinley tent sits on a huge ice balcony in the middle of the icy landscape of the Lhotse wall. Hannes struggled with the weight and the steep terrain and arrived several hours later. Unfortunately, there were too many clouds to enjoy the views. Total lack of wind at this altitude is absolutely rare. On our satellite phone, we received the latest weather report directly from Tyrol from Karl Gabl: No wind, some rain, no significant change. Everything was good. Depending on the conditions that night, we wanted to decide how long our stay at 7,400 meters would last. Sleeping at high altitude, the last days' efforts and a gathering storm were enough reason to go back to base camp the next morning. For my part, the second acclimatization session was quite satisfying. Our network of campsites along the route is all set up, and we were able to spend a night at Camp 3. But the nights at high altitude, general exhaustion and his lack of appetite wore Hannes out. A few days at the base camp will probably allow him to regain energy and motivation. At this point, we will recuperate for a few days here in the base camp and recharge our bodies with enough energy for the upcoming endeavors.

 

Share article

That might interest you too

Expedition
24.05.2017

Summit attempt canceled...

For the last few days, we climbed as planned from one high-altitude camp to the next. On Tuesday night in Camp 2, we...

Read more
Expedition
15.05.2017

Third acclimatization session complete

We left the base camp on Saturday morning as planned.

Read more
Expedition
10.05.2017

Rest days in the base camp

After we arrived here yesterday, around noon, the weather also decided to turn to "base camp" mode.

Read more
Expedition
01.05.2017

In memory of Ueli Steck

A few words from Markus Amon to the tragic accident which happened very close to them.

Read more
Expedition
01.05.2017

First acclimatization session successfully completed

I tried to keep you up-to-date with our LiveTracker. What is still missing is a detailed report with pictures of the...

Read more
Expedition
26.04.2017

A team is breaking apart!

Only yesterday, we reached the base camp, set it up together and looked back on the last days and weeks.

Read more
Expedition
26.04.2017

A team is breaking apart!

Only yesterday, we reached the base camp, set it up together and looked back on the last days and weeks.

Read more
Expedition
25.04.2017

Everest base camp set up after two hard-working days

As reported, we reached base camp yesterday.

Read more
Expedition
22.04.2017

Chukhung Ri, 5,560m: Day trip from the lodge in Chukhung!

This morning, Hannes and I left for an acclimatization tour to Chukhung's local mountain.

Read more
Expedition
21.04.2017

Chukhung (4,636m): the last lodge before the Island Peak for many

Initially, we wanted to leave Pamboche right after breakfast, but unfortunately, our porters put a spoke in our wheel.

Read more
Expedition
17.04.2017

Sumdur Ri 5,270m

Acclimatization tour from Thame.

Read more
Expedition
16.04.2017

Return of winter on the way to Trashi Labtsa

Yesterday morning, we left Na, the last village and thus also the last lodge before the crossing of the pass.

Read more
Expedition
13.04.2017

Acclimatization and rest days at 4,250m in Na

We spent the last two days here in Na, the last Sherpa settlement in the Rolwaling Valley.

Read more
Expedition
11.04.2017

Na

Today, we hiked the next leg of our trip to the village of Na.

Read more
Expedition
07.04.2017

200km on dusty roads to Gonggar

Post breakfast, together with our porters, trekking guide and kitchen crew, we finally departed Kathmandu.

Read more
Expedition
06.04.2017

Finally arrived...

Days in Kathmandu – Nepal's capital

Read more
Expedition
30.03.2017

Preparation of Georg Leithner

The fact that I am going to take on the highest mountain is certainly my biggest challenge...

Read more
Expedition
30.03.2017

Preparation of Noemi Beuret

The time is approaching - our adventure trip will start shortly...

Read more
Expedition
30.03.2017

Preparation of Markus Amon

"A dream comes true..."
The long awaited start of our Everest expedition comes closer and closer.

Read more