Columbia

Trek to the Lost City (Ciudad Perdida)

At the time we started our trip through South America, Columbia was not one of the countries on our list. This mainly due to the reputation this country has in Europe, said to be too dangerous and politically unstable. However, during our travels, we more and more were confronted with a completely different opinion, mostly reported from other travelers, who have traveled to Columbia themselves. This is why we changed our mind, setting off to build our own opinion about this country. And we got more than rewarded for it; amazing landscapes were awaiting us, lovely people and a country that is not yet too overcrowded with tourists.
In search for some outdoor activities, our mind soon set on the 6-day trek to the Ciudad Perdida of the Tyronians, discovered only in 1975, set in the middle of the jungle.

Day 1:
Taganga, 10am, our Jeep was ready for take off! Cramped on the backseat, our adventure was about to start. After a first 1-hour ride, we arrived at the entry gate to the Tayrona National Park where we were greeted by military officials, taking care of the entrance administration. After checking all the papers, the gate opened and we had the official OK to proceed to the village where our trek would start. After a short lunch, we were ready for our 6-day experience! A 3-hour hike was on the schedule today, before we would reach our first refuge for the night. Already after 30 minutes we were offered our first treat – a jump into the river close by, in order to cool ourselves down before the big climb of that day! With temperatures around 30C, this was an offer we could not reject. Back on the road, the uphill climb started. 400 difference in altitude of steep terrain ahead of us, definitely a challenge on a first day, especially with the climatic conditions this part of the earth is offering. High humidity, plain sunshine and high temperatures challenged us. Nevertheless, we fought our way upwards and were soon rewarded with the stunning landscape which was presented to us once we reached the top! Lush, green vegetation as far as one's eyes could see, with only a couple of houses scattered amongst it. Already now we knew, this trek was well worth it!

Day 2:
6am, after our first night sleeping in a hammock, a delicious breakfast was awaiting us. As today's hike was only 2 hours, our guide proposed to take us to some nearby waterfalls. A steep downhill climb later and we were standing at the top of a huge waterfall where we had a cool bath in the ponds at the bottom of it. Refreshed, back at the refuge we packed our things and were ready for today's trek. The further we headed into the valley, the lusher the vegetation got. Higher trees, lianas, thick undergrowth and muddy patches were lining our path. An amazing vegetation we have never seen before. 2 hours later we arrived at the place we stayed for the night. A refuge run by the local Indian community. Our cook once again spoiled us with a delicious meal, providing us with the right amount of energy for the next day – the day when we would reach the lost city.

Day 3:
With dawn just about arriving, it was time to get up, have breakfast and get ready for the longest hike on this trek. Further and further we continued on our way to the Ciudad Perdida. First along a river, then steeply uphill before traversing through banana plantations and several Indigenous villages back to the river. For the next hour it was time to change into our sandals, 8 river crossings were laying ahead of us. With the water up to our knees, we slowly crossed the river, eager not to be pulled into the water by the strong currents. After the 8th crossing, climbing through the thicket alongside the river a last crossing was waiting for us, and finally there they were, the famous steps leading to the Ciudad Perdida. 1'200 steps were lying ahead of us, needed to be climbed in order to reach the lost city. A last challenge as the slippery steps were tricky to climb. Slowly but steadily we climbed upwards, always in mind to soon have reached our goal! Then, another twist of the stairs and there they were, the famous terraces of the lost city! Happy, but at the same time exhausted we took a first eye sight of this great place and were speechless... It presented itself to us in such a beauty, set amongst this lush vegetation - this is definitely a special place!

Day 4:
Together with 2 other groups, we stayed in a refuge directly on the grounds of the Ciudad Perdida. In order to have the place to ourselves whilst exploring it, our guide woke us up before dawn. Still a bit tired, but excited we climbed the endless amount of stairs from one terrace to the next one, finding mossy walls built by the Tyronians 1'000 years ago. Even if there are no houses anymore visible, the place sends out rays of beauty and mysticism which leaves oneself wonder once again, how a place of such great importance to a culture could have been abandoned like that... Luckily, it has been rediscovered, definitely one of the most amazing places we both have seen so far!
After spending our time wandering through this magical place, it was too soon time to head back in the direction of the refuge we stayed in the 2nd night. Cautiously we climbed down the stairs again, still indulging ourselves in the memories of this fantastic place. Another 8 river crossings and sooner than expected we were back at the indigenous refuge. Exhausted, but utterly happy, we fall asleep that night.

Day 5:
With only 2 hours of walk ahead of us, we treated ourselves to a late start this morning, slowly had breakfast and then tackled the relatively easy hike for today. Even if some groups would offer doing this trek in 4 days, we are happy to be able to enjoy ourselves in this incredibly beautiful landscape without having to rush from one place to the other. It gave us time to reflect, to wonder and to indulge in the beauty of this place!
It being the last evening of the trek, our guide suddenly appeared with a group of locals at our table, a guitar, drums and beating wood in his hand, ready to sing. What a great evening; Columbian music, laughter and a great atmosphere – it could not have been better!

Day 6:
Soon after another delicious breakfast it was time to head back to civilisation. Waving goodbye to our hosts we were off on our last 2 hours of this trek. Another last bath in the river and soon after we arrived back where we started off 5 days ago. Sad to be back already, but with a mind full of great memories, we let the last days mentally pass once more, climbed into the Jeep, off back to Taganga.